Monday, 23 June 2008

Mustagh Tower 2008

First time I saw the mountain during my Broad Peak-GII expedition in 1986, and later in 1988 on K2 Magic Line attempt that ended on 8100 m because of terrible weather... 20 years later it's time to come back. With click on the small photo you get the basic info about the expedition. In next two months we will try to keep you informed about news and events through Mustagh Tower expedition site.

Friday, 25 January 2008

2005, 2004 and before...

2005: Codillera Huayhuash, Trapecio: First complete ascent of Lowe route

On Sunday 10.7.2005 a team of four climbers: Pavle Kozjek, Miha Lampreht, Branko Ivanek (all from Slovenia) and Aritza Monasterio (Basque, living in Peru) completed the central route in Trapecio (5644 m), Cordillera Huayhuash. The hardest part of the route route was climbed by Jeff Lowe in 1985, but he returned after climbing the crux of the route some 250 m below the top. He graded his climb ED+, 700m and considered it as one of his hardest solo climbs.

We began our climb at 5 in the morning and immediately met the overhanging rock (A2, M5). There was much less ice in the wall than years ago and climbing conditions were varying. Easier middle part of the face leads us to a vertical headwall (AI5-6, 80-90 deg.). Due to bad ice conditions in the last steep pitch we traversed 30 m to the right and climbed an overhanging rock chimney (VI-) that leads them to the upper snowfields. With two more steepp pitches (AI 4-5, 60-75 st) they reached almost directly the top of Trapecio at 5 PM. They descended down the N face, using headlamps and reached base camp at 2:30 in the night.

Technical data:
Cordillera Huayhuash-Trapecio (5644m), SE Face
1st complete ascent of Lowe route (attempt?)
ED+ (AI6, M5, A2) 800 m, 12h
Descent: N face


2004: Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju - The Lord of the Towers

On July 8-9 2004, Marjan Kovac, Pavle Kozjek (both from Slovenia) and Aritza Monasterio (Spain/Basque, living in Huaraz) opened a new route on the north face of Chacraraju Oeste (6112m) in a lightweight, single push.

Complete report:
Other links:

Previous ascents (1978-2003): first ascent of Cerro Torre E face, new alpine style route in Shisha Pangma S face, Everest without oxygen... :