2005: Codillera Huayhuash, Trapecio: First complete ascent of Lowe route
On Sunday 10.7.2005 a team of four climbers: Pavle
Kozjek, Miha
Lampreht, Branko
Ivanek (all from Slovenia) and Aritza
Monasterio (Basque, living in Peru) completed the central route in
Trapecio (5644 m), Cordillera Huayhuash. The hardest part of the route route was climbed by Jeff
Lowe in 1985, but he returned after climbing the crux of the route some 250 m below the top. He graded his climb ED+, 700m and considered it as one of his hardest solo climbs.
We began our climb at 5 in the morning and immediately met the overhanging rock (A2, M5). There was much less ice in the wall than years ago and climbing conditions were varying. Easier middle part of the face leads us to a vertical headwall (AI5-6, 80-90 deg.). Due to bad ice conditions in the last steep pitch we traversed 30 m to the right and climbed an overhanging rock chimney (VI-) that leads them to the upper snowfields. With two more steepp pitches (AI 4-5, 60-75 st) they reached almost directly the top of Trapecio at 5 PM. They descended down the N face, using headlamps and reached base camp at 2:30 in the night.
Technical data:
Cordillera Huayhuash-Trapecio (5644m), SE Face
1st complete ascent of Lowe route (attempt?)
ED+ (AI6, M5, A2) 800 m, 12h
Descent: N face
Links:
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/trapeciolowe/http://www.desnivel.com/deportes/alpinismo/object.php?o=13901http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP14/climbing-notes-kozjekhttp://www.bergsteigen.at/de/bericht.aspx?ID=560http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,39,0,1,interviews.html
2004: Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju - The Lord of the Towers
On July 8-9 2004, Marjan Kovac, Pavle Kozjek (both from Slovenia) and Aritza Monasterio (Spain/Basque, living in Huaraz) opened a new route on the north face of Chacraraju Oeste (6112m) in a lightweight, single push.
Complete report: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP09/climbing-note-kozjek
Other links:
http://www.desnivel.com/deportes/alpinismo/object.php?o=11455
http://www.climbingperu.com/portadas/chacrarajuoeste2004.htm
Previous ascents (1978-2003): first ascent of Cerro Torre E face, new alpine style route in Shisha Pangma S face, Everest without oxygen... : http://www.extremekanal.com/kozjek/ang/index_pavlekozjek_ang.htm
